Berdiansk and the Sea of Azov: Shallow Waters, Mud, and Sunshine – A Guide for Tourists

Monument to Ivan Ayvazovsky — the famous marine artist lived in Berdiansk. The house-museum now displays his works (admission fee is 20 UAH, about 0.5 EUR; hours of operation are 10:00-18:00, Monday is closed). It’s a small but charming museum located in an old merchant’s house.

Berdiansk Lighthouse — this red brick lighthouse, built in 1884, is still in use today. From it, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire bay. Visitors can approach the lighthouse, but entry is not allowed inside. It’s a truly picturesque spot, especially at sunset.

Kossa (Tuendat) — this remote beach is located at the edge of the Berdiansk Peninsula, 7 km from the city center. You can get there by bus No. 1 or by car (taxi costs 100-150 UAH, approximately 2.5-4 EUR). The water here is crystal clear, and the beach is undeveloped; parking is also available. It’s perfect for those who prefer to avoid crowds. Bring your own water, as there are no shops nearby.

Practical Information: When to Go, Cost, and What to Bring

Season:

<Accommodation:

• Sanatoriums/resort hotels:
• Private hotels: Room rates range from 400 to 1200 UAH (~10 to 30 EUR) per night, with breakfast either included or available as an optional extra.
• Hostels/guesthouses:
• Apartments rented through platforms like Airbnb or Booking.com: Prices range from 500 to 1500 UAH per night.

Reservations should be made 2 to 3 weeks in advance during the peak season. Facilities tend to fill up quickly. Weekends are generally 30% to 50% more expensive than on weekdays.

Food:

• Canteens in sanatoriums:
• Cafes by the beach:

• Restaurants:
  • Supermarkets:

  • Other tips:
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Tips for Tourists: What to Bring, What to Avoid, Where to Eat

• Bathing suit + slippers: Essential. The sand is hot, so you don’t want blisters on your feet.
• Sunscreen SPF 50+: The sun is intense here, especially in July. You’ll get a tan in just 2 hours.
• T-shirt or light sweater: The sea breeze can be cool, even on hot days.
• Microfiber towel: Sanatoriums provide towels, but bringing your own is more convenient (mud sticks better to them).
• Hat or Panama hat: Necessary if you’re sensitive to the sun.
• Mud-resistant slippers: Pools of mud can be slippery; even old sneakers will do.
• Medicine for diarrhea: The water here is fresh, but your body might react. Activated charcoal can help.
• Wet wipes: Mud is everywhere, so you’ll need to wash up frequently.
• Camera/phone: Protect it from sand and moisture (use a waterproof case or bag).

Crowds on weekends from 12:00 to 16:00: The beach becomes like a market. It’s better to go there in the morning from 7-10 AM or after 5:00 PM.
1. Dirt from the shore (black slime): Some tourists try to clean it off with regular dirt, but it doesn’t help. You need special therapeutic mud from a certain depth.
2. Alcohol on the beach: It’s officially prohibited, but no one really enforces it. However, hot weather combined with alcohol can be dangerous.
3. Walking alone at night: The city is safe, but it’s better not to take risks.
4. The resort in September-October after the rains:
5. The water becomes cold (18-20°C) and may turn muddy due to silt. It’s advisable to bring wetsuits during this time.

Where to eat (specific places):

• “Travers” (fish restaurant) — Located on the waterfront. Specialties include fried hams for 80 UAH (~2 EUR) and mussels for 150 UAH (~3.7 EUR). They serve cold beer and are open from 12:00 to 22:00.
• “Morie” (cafe-bar) — Situated in the center of town. Broth costs 40 UAH (~1 EUR), and boiled fish is 120 UAH (~3 EUR). Authentic Ukrainian food prepared by kind-hearted owners.
• “Zhemchuzhina” (expensive but delicious) — Serves shrimp, crab meat, and hot fish combos. A two-person meal costs around 600-800 UAH (~15-20 EUR). Open from 18:00 to 23:00.
• Beach stalls: Shashlik for 30-50 UAH (~0.75-1.2 EUR), cold beer, and juices. In the evening (19:00-20:00), tourists gather here to enjoy the sunset while eating.

What’s definitely not available here: Sushi, burgers like those in Kiev, cafes on rooftops, or nightclubs (people dance in bars until 2-3 AM). Nightlife is quiet; young people usually spend their time on the waterfront or drinking beer on benches.

Internet: Everything works, and 4G is available everywhere. You can use a Kievstar or Vodafon SIM card (100 UAH ~2.5 EUR per month with unlimited data), or ask the hotel for the Wi-Fi password.