Utbular and the Bozhivik Archipelago: where red cottages face the open sea

When you see Utbylar for the first time from the sea, it seems as if time has stood still here since the 1950s. Red wooden cottages with white trim, wooden docks, and the scent of saltwater and fish nets—these are not just decorations but the real life of a coastal village on the shore of the Bohuslön region. The paradox is that this place, completely unknown to Russian-speaking tourists, is one of Sweden’s most authentic areas. The Bohuvik archipelago contains over 8,000 islands and islets, accessible mainly to those who are willing to rent a kayak or motorboat.

An archipelago of eight thousand islands where people live just as they did 70 years ago

Bohuvik is not some resort archipelago with modern infrastructure. It’s a real labyrinth of rocky formations, coniferous forests, and tiny uninhabited islets where seagulls and seals roam freely. Most of the archipelago is located within a protected marine area (Natura 2000), so no hotels are built here. The inhabitants of the island villages still fish in the same way they have since Viking times.

The main base for exploring the archipelago is the village of Utbylar itself, where only 200–300 people live permanently (three times that number arrive in summer). Here lies Sweden’s oldest lighthouse, Utan lighthouse, built in 1848. It is still in use today, and its white tower can be seen from anywhere in the village—serving as a guide for both local fishermen and kayaking tourists.

Kayaking as a Way of Life: Routes Suitable for All Levels of Experience

Here, kayaking is not just a weekend activity—it’s a means of transportation. The distances between the islands range from 300 meters to 5 kilometers, and the weather is unpredictable; currents can be quite strong. But it’s precisely this challenge that makes it such an authentic adventure.

For beginners, there are gentle routes along the coast of Utbyular. These kayaking tours take 3–4 hours and cost between 450 and 650 SEK per person (about 40–60 EUR). We recommend the company “Bohusläns Kajakuthyrning” {GOOGLE=58.4525,11.1890}—they provide instructions, life jackets, and route maps that highlight shallow areas and dangerous currents.

More experienced kayakers rent single-person kayaks (around 350 SEK per day, approximately 32 EUR) and go on multi-day trips around the archipelago, staying at organized camps or simple huts on the islands. The classic route is: Utbylar – Gräbesky Sker island – Norsker island {GOOGLE=58.3687,11.0234} – back. This takes 2–3 days and requires a fairly good level of physical fitness, but you’ll see things that tourists in ordinary cities would never have the chance to see.

Red cottages: history, architecture, and where to stay

The hallmark of Utbylar—and indeed the entire coast of Boguslön—is the fallearbohus, these red wooden cottages measuring approximately 4 by 5 meters. Originally built as fishermen’s shelters, they were later converted into guesthouses while retaining their original character. Prices range from 600–800 SEK per day (about 55–75 EUR) for the most basic accommodations to up to 1500 SEK (140 EUR) for cottages with showers and heating. The best option for tourists is the hostel-cottage “Utbyudden Värdshus” {GOOGLE=58.4512,11.1903}, which offers direct views of the archipelago and the lighthouse pier.

Architecturally, these red cottages are interesting because they represent a transitional style between medieval Scandinavian huts and Victorian house construction. The roofs are always gabled (to allow water to drain), the walls have no insulation (wind blew through them, but this saved materials), and the windows are small (to prevent drafts). This was an architecture designed for survival, not comfort.

Local cuisine: smoked fish, crayfish, and wine by the shore

Utbylar is not a restaurant mecca. There are only a few places to eat here, but the food is truly delicious. The region’s specialty is smoked cod (räksmörgås), caught in the archipelago, smoked on-site, and served with bread, butter, and lemon. Price: 120-180 SEK (11-17 EUR).

From July to August, the Swedish river crayfish season takes place here. At the docks of Utbylar, you can buy fresh crayfish directly from fishermen for 250-400 SEK per kilogram (23-37 EUR), and then cook them over a campfire on the island. This is a local dream for tourists who have read about Scandinavian summer simplicity.

The restaurant “Värdshus” {GOOGLE=58.4512,11.1903}, located next to the hostel, serves meals made with local ingredients: cod roe, shrimp, and sometimes venison (during the hunting season). The average bill for a main course is 180-280 SEK (16-26 EUR). It usually opens at 12:00 and closes at 18:00 (check the schedule during summer, as it may extend).

For those who prefer to cook themselves: the small shop “ICA Närbutiken” {GOOGLE=58.4518,11.1895} in Utbylar sells bread, butter, cheese, and canned fish. The prices are slightly higher than in the city, but still reasonable—bread costs 35 SEK, and good local cheese ranges from 60-90 SEK (5-8 EUR).

Secrets of the Routes: Where to Go, Where to Take Photos, What to Do in Bad Weather

The best time to visit Utbylar is from late May to August. In June, the nights hardly get dark (this is known as “white night” in Sweden), but it’s warmer in July. July is the peak season, when water temperatures reach 17–18°C. Nevertheless, you will still need a kayak suit.

Photogenic spots include: the Utan lighthouse at sunset (especially beautiful at 21:00, when the sun is low in the west but the light is still bright); the red cottages reflected in the calm water at dawn (you should be by the water between 5:00 and 5:30); and Norsker Island with its moss-covered rock formations.

GPS tips for photographers: The rocks of Gräbeskog Skär are great for photos at sunrise from the sea (leave Utbylar at 4:00 am); the docks in Norro are perfect at sunset; and the red cottages in Utbylar look best when photographed from the small dock in the northern part of the village.

In bad weather (wind is common in August), you can visit the lighthouse museum (small, with only 2 rooms; entrance fee: 50 SEK, about 4.5 EUR) to learn about the history of Boživik through the eyes of lighthouse keepers. Or head to the fishing village of Smögen, located 20 km away, where you can find more amenities, restaurants, and galleries. Reading in a cottage with a view of the stormy sea is also a popular activity among Scandinavian tourists.

Practical Details: How to Get There, What to Bring, and What to Do During the Season

There is no direct public transportation to Utbylär. The nearest town with a train station is Tanumshede, located approximately 30 km southeast of Utbylär. From the train station, you can take a taxi (around 600–800 SEK, or approximately 55–75 EUR) or rent a car (if you plan to stay for several days, it is more economical: from 400 SEK per day, or approximately 37 EUR).

Another option is to travel to Göteborg, the regional capital, from where there are buses to Tanumshede (about 2.5 hours, 150–200 SEK). From Moscow, you can fly to Stockholm (usually 3–4 hours), and then take a train or bus to Göteborg (another 4–5 hours).

Essential items to bring: a waterproof phone case (it will be very useful while kayaking), an extra layer of wool under your wet kayak clothing (the water is cold in summer, around 15–18°C), sunscreen with an SPF of 50+ (the reflection from the water can increase the risk of sunburn), and a map of the archipelago (available for 50 SEK, or approximately 4.5 EUR, at the Utbylär information center, or you can download the Bohuslän Archipelago app).

Travel season: June to August is the main tourist season. May is still too cold (water temperature around 10–12°C), and September tends to be windy. If you want to avoid crowds of tourists (though they are still present here), it is best to visit in the second half of June or the first half of August. In July, many Swedish schools are on vacation, so the areas may be more crowded during weekends.

Things to know before you go

• The Bohuslän Archipelago consists of more than 8,000 islands and islets, but only about 70 of them are inhabited. The rest remain a wild natural habitat for seals and eagles, making it one of the largest archipelagos in Scandinavia in terms of the number of islands.
• The Utan lighthouse was built in 1848 and is one of the oldest still-operating lighthouses in Sweden. Its keeper held this position for 40–50 years, serving as both the island’s sole rescuer and judge.

Weekend in Utbylar: A Sample Itinerary for 2-3 Days

Day 1, Friday evening. Arrive in Utbylar around 3-4 PM (1.5 hours drive from Gothenburg). Check into a cottage or the Värdshus hostel. Take a evening walk through the village and photograph the lighthouse at sunset. Dinner: smoked cod. If the weather permits, build a campfire on the shore. Costs: One-night stay in the hostel (shared room) – 250-350 SEK (23-32 EUR); dinner – 150 SEK (14 EUR).

Day 2, Saturday. Morning: Kayak tour guided by an expert (450 SEK, approximately 41 EUR) along the island of Norro. Lunch at the dock: crayfish or cod (200-300 SEK). Snack in the cottage. In the afternoon: visit the red cottages and the lighthouse museum (50 SEK). Evening: Go kayaking alone along the coast if you have experience; otherwise, relax in the cottage. Dinner and drinks. Costs: Kayak tour – 450 SEK; food – 300 SEK; museum admission – 50 SEK.

Day 3, Sunday. Morning: If the weather is good, go kayaking to Gräbesky Skär island (half-day tour, 500 SEK with a guide); if not, drive to the nearby village of Smögen (30 minutes) to explore galleries and restaurants. Lunch en route. Return to Utbylar by 3 PM. Costs: Kayak tour or other activities – 300-500 SEK. Total cost for 2-3 days for two people, excluding airfare and transportation: approximately 2000-2500 SEK (185-230 EUR).