Serbian hospitality: a night at a kafana with rakia and live music

History and Context: What is a Kafana and Why Are They Needed for Serbians

A kafana is not just a place where food and drinks are served. It is an institution deeply rooted in Serbian life, originating from the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century. The word itself derives from the Turkish "kahve" (coffee). Although in the past kafanas were primarily places for drinking coffee and smoking hookahs, today they have evolved into full-fledged nightclubs with live music, food, and strong alcoholic drinks.

In a kafana, people gather together to forget their worries. They sing, dance, drink brandy (a plum brandy with an alcohol content of 40-50%), eat grilled meat and hot snacks. Music is an essential element; typically, there is a guitarist, an accordionist, and a singer who perform traditional Serbian folk music or modern hits.

Plum trees are considered sacred in Serbia. From them, brandy is made, which is proudly referred to as "liquid gold". Serbia produces brandy on an industrial scale, and almost every family prepares its own homemade version at home. When tourists visit, they are often offered this brandy as a sign of respect and hospitality.

How to Get to a Serbian Kafana

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The best place to start is Belgrade, the capital of Serbia. There is a high concentration of kafanas in the areas surrounding the Danube River and the historic center of the city.

From Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (Aerodrom Nikola Tesla Beograd ):The airport is located 12 km from the city center. You can reach it via:

• Bus A1 — operates every 20 minutes from 5:00 am to 11:00 pm, with a travel time of 45 minutes and a fare of 300 Serbian dinars (~2.5 EUR).

In Belgrade itself, there are no public transportation options such as metro (which is only in the planning stage), so the main modes of transport are walking, trams, buses, and taxis. Most local restaurants, known as kafanas, are easily accessible on foot from the city center.

To reach a traditional Serbian kafana by the Danube, for example in the Zemun or Palilula areas, you can take bus number 78 from the city center. The journey takes about 15-20 minutes, and the ticket cost is 150 RSD (~1.3 EUR). Alternatively, you can take a taxi for around 800-1200 RSD (~7-10 EUR).

Recommended Attractions: Famous Serbian Kafanas

Zemun is an excellent location for enjoying a kafana with a view. Sit by the window and enjoy the view while sipping rakia and drinking beer.

Kafana Tri Šešira is one of the oldest traditional Serbian kafanas in Belgrade. It has been operating since 1945 and is located in the historic district of Stari Grad, right on the main pedestrian street.Here, you can experience a genuine traditional atmosphere: wooden tables, simple dishes like grilled meat, fish, or brinza, and live music every evening from 9:00 PM. Traditional Turkish music and folk songs are played, and prices are reasonable: beer is around 300-400 RSD (~2.5-3.3 EUR), rakia is 200 RSD per glass, and main dishes range from 800 to 1500 RSD. It is open daily from 11:00 am to 2:00 am, and on weekends from 11:00 am to 4:00 am.

2. Kafana Tri Volta is located near Tri Sheshiri. It is famous for the energetic atmosphere of its guests after midnight. Not only do musicians perform here, but customers also sing along. Admission is free, and snacks range in price from 400 to 800 RSD (~3.3 to 7 EUR), while drinks cost 300 to 500 RSD (~2.5 to 4 EUR). It is open daily from 7 p.m. to 5 a.m.

3. Balkan House caters primarily to tourists, but offers high-quality food and music. There is a wide selection of Serbian dishes, and professional musicians perform. Prices are relatively higher, with main courses ranging from 1200 to 2000 RSD (~10 to 17 EUR) and beer at 400 RSD (~3.3 EUR). It opens from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and it is best to reserve a table through the website or by calling +381 11 323-4636.

4. The cafe by the Danube in Zemun is located in the historic district of Zemun , which is known for its medieval streets and cafes with views of the Danube and the Petrovvaradin fortress on the Romanian side. Tourists often visit this place, and it is indeed worth experiencing. Sitting by the river, enjoying rakia and listening to live music is an unforgettable experience. Prices here are about 20-30% higher than in other similar venues.

5. The legendary Kafana Spajz 44.8204,20.4512> is a small, cozy space with old-fashioned walls and a well-established reputation. It attracts people from all walks of life – taxi drivers, waiters, passersby. This is not a tourist attraction; it’s a genuine Serbian cafe. Home-made rakia costs 200 RSD, and snacks range from 300 to 600 RSD. It opens from 6 p.m. to 6 a.com

6. Kafana Korovnik — located in the Belgrade University Hospital area. Nearby are the Belgrade University Hospital and the National Institute of Public Health Institute of Public Health. Nearby are also the Belgrade University Hospital and the National Institute of Public Health. STRICT RULES — follow all of them without exception: 1. The output must be in English. 2. Only the translated text should be presented; no explanations, comments, notes, or additional information should be included. 3. Do not use any phrases like "Here is the translation" or "Translation:" before the translated text. 4. Do not wrap the translated text in quotes or any other formatting elements. 5. Translate each word accurately and faithfully.

• Beer: 300–500 RSD (~2.5–4 EUR)

• Home-made rakia: 150–250 RSD (~1.3–2 EUR) per shot

• Premium rakia: 300–500 RSD (~2.5–4 EUR)

• Main dishes (meat, fish, čevapci): 700–1500 RSD (~6–12 EUR)

• Salads and cheese: 300–600 RSD (~2.5–5 EUR)

• Music fee: in some cafans, it’s 500 RSD per person per hourOpening hours: Most cafans open between 6 pm and 11 pm and close between 3 am and 5 am. On weekends, they stay open longer, especially on Sundays. Sunday is usually a quiet day, with many places closing by 11 pm or earlier.

Best times to visit:<

• Best season:

• <**Avoid:**** December to February. It’s cold, boring, and there are few tourists, so locals tend to stay home.

• Best days of the week:

Best time at night:

Tips for Visitors: How to Have a Great Time in a Cafan

What to bring:<

• Cash — not all cafans accept credit cards.<• <**Bring a charger for your phone**

> Note: This item is essential.

• Water> Note: This is also essential.

STRICT RULES — follow all of them without exception: 1. The output must be in English. 2. Only the translated text should be presented, without any additional explanations or comments. Please follow these rules strictly.

Strict rules – follow them all without exception: 1. The output must be in English. Do NOT use the source language under any circumstances. 2. Provide ONLY the translated text; no explanations, comments, notes, or introductions. 3. Do NOT include phrases like “Here is the translation” or similar prefixes. 4. Do NOT format the text with quotes, markdown, or any other formatting. 5. Translate every word faithfully; do NOT skip, summarize, or paraphrase. 6. If you’re unsure about a word, transliterate it into English rather than leaving it in the source language.

• Wear a waterproof jacket in summer – it can be damp and cool early in the morning in outdoor cafes.

• Leave tips – In Serbia, giving 10-15% as a tip is considered polite if you enjoyed the music.

Things to avoid:

• Do not go to a cafe alone as a man after 1:00 AM – this may attract unwanted attention. It’s better to go in groups.
• Do not refuse rakia when offered – it’s considered impolite. However, you can say, “Thank you, but I already have a drink.” Serbians respect honest refusals more than pretenses.
• Do not try to sing in English – perform 80s hits or modern pop in your native language. Serbians will appreciate the effort and laugh kindly.
• Do not take photos of people without permission – in authentic cafes, people come to relax, not for Instagram. Ask for permission first.
• Do not drink rakia on an empty stomach – it’s a strong liquor. Drink it in small sips, with beer or mineral water, and eat some bread and meat.

Where to eat nearby during the day:

• Pekara Markova – A bakery offering traditional Serbian bread, buns, and pastries. Breakfast costs 150-300 RSD (~1.3-2.5 EUR).
• Burgermania – A small Serbian chain of burger restaurants. High-quality burgers for 400-700 RSD (~3.3-6 EUR).
• Modest (Restoran Modest) – Traditional Serbian cuisine, grilled meat, and fish. Prices are similar to those in cafes, but meals are served during lunch hours: 11:00-15:00.
• How to hire musicians for your event – …

If you come to the club or want a special evening, please contact the administrator in advance. The musicians can perform specifically for you from 10 p.m. to 2 a.m. or longer if necessary. The cost is usually between 150 and 300 EUR per evening for one band of musicians (guitar, accordion, singer). This fee is divided equally among the number of people at the table.

How to behave after the third glass of rakia:

After drinking your third glass of rakia, you will likely feel like you are everyone’s best friend at the bar. This is completely normal. Serbians love people who enjoy themselves, who laugh and forget about being modest. But remember: rakia is powerful. If you start to feel dizzy, drink some water, eat some bread with cheese, and then switch to drinking beer.